Glacier Travel Course

This course will focus on avoiding crevasse falls by reading the glacier, rope management, and communication. In case a crevasse fall does occur, we will practice building anchors, self rescue by prusiking, and the haul system. For either skiers or summer mountaineers on foot.

Date

Check calendar on homepage for openings.

Course Options 

1. In Town: We practice glacier travel skills in an Anchorage park. This maximizes learning and reduces travel time. It’s a good option for groups who want to increase their glacier travel skills before a trip into the Alaska Range, for example.

2. Two days: One day working on skills, then one day on a glacier applying those skills, if conditions allow.

3. Part of a full Ski Mountaineering Course.

4. We’ll use these Glacier Travel Notes

Sample Two Day Itinerary

Day 1: 8am meet at your house for trip discussion and gear set up. Transition to a deep snow drift to work on skills.

• Trip consulting (optional)

• Trip planning (food, Google Earth, Gaia)

• Glaciology and glacier hazards

• Avoiding a crevasse fall discussion

• Gear for glacier travel

• Knots for glacier travel (figure 8s, overhands, prusik hitch, Munter hitch, clove hitch, autblock hitch)

• Setting up your harness

• Roping together

• Rescue coils vs Kiwi coils

• Stopper knots

• Self-arresting a fall

• Snow anchors

• Self rescue (prusiking)

• Crevasse rescue progression

  • Direct haul

  • Team C

  • Drop loop (2:1)

  • Drop loop + 3:1 = 6:1

Day 2: Applying and practicing the skills. If conditions allow, we can do a glacier tour such as the Milk-Raven Loop, a glacier near Whittier or Portage, or the Matanuska. If conditions don’t allow, we can spend more time practicing the rope skills in a snowy area.

Recommended Prerequisites

• Advanced ski ability. Being in control on skis is fundamental to reducing risk.

• Fitness for 1+ full days of activity including 8+ hours of continuous movement.

• Comfort with knots: figure eight follow through, figure eight on a bight, flemish bend, butterfly, prusik hitch, autoblock hitch, clove hitch. The rock gym is a good place to get comfortable with ropes and knots. See Animated Knots for help with knots.

• Avalanche Level 1.

Cost 

• 1 client: $700 per day

• 2 clients: $400 per person per day

• 3 clients: $300 per person per day

• 4+ clients: $250 per person per day, a second guide may be added over four clients.

• In partnership with Alaska Guide Collective.

• More booking info.

Includes

• AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide Joe Stock. Up to eight clients. A second guide may be added.

• Navigation, first aid and repair kits.

• Emergency communication and shelter.

• Rope and pickets.

• Some gear available for loan.

Does Not Include

• Transport. To reduce your costs, using a rental car or your personal car is the best option.

• Lodging, food and drinks. See Southcentral Alaska Logistics.

• Personal ski or mountaineering gear. See Backcountry Ski Gear List or Mountaineering Gear List.

• Rescue and trip insurance. See Booking for details.